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SAANICH FOODIE: Perfect pairs highlight evening at Artisan Bistro

Warm atmosphere meets fantastic French-twist food in Saanich eatery
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Blackberry rubbed venison tenderloin main features fresh wild mushroom and cevre ravioli, Swiss chard and a marsala demi along side a deep Valpolicella Classico DOC 2014 (Arduini). Christine van Reeuwyk/Black Press

As the interior fills for the special event, regulars – greeted like friends – continue to fill patio tables at Artisan Bistro.

Maybe they’re popular because of that friendly atmosphere, or because executive chef Daryl Pope is willing to work four days for the tenderest of octopus.

Manager and sommelier Nolan Wilson and Pope skillfully paired the wines, noticeable for even a less-sophisticated palate.

The first course of striploin steak tartare with fresh brioche, foie gras torchon, sous vide egg yolk are the first example of a perfect pairing. The Rosé Fruité (Elodie) pleased the refined eye and palate of Grace Li of Word Wine Synergy (their European portfolio provided all the pairings for the evening) as well my less-knowledgeable one.

The second course was the standout for this foodie. It was the amazing octopus, perfectly tender that made the dish. It was served in a salad with hits of chorizo and a perfect balance of charred bell pepper, saffron and lemon vinaigrette. Paired well with Davila 2015 (Adegas Valminor).

The main course of blackberry rubbed venison tenderloin with fresh wild mushrooms and chèvre (cheese made with goat milk) ravioli, spinach and a marsala sauce. Paired with a full body red Valpolicella Classico Doc 2014 (Arduini).

Drama came with dessert. Chefs in their whites paraded through the dining room, each carefully brandishing a saucière of warm salted caramel to pour over the chocolate domes of dessert. The domes melt away to reveal the cherries, chocolate and hazelnut awaiting below. Paired with a Muscat (Elodie)

Artisan Bistro is nestled among a number of eateries in Broadmead Village, each offering a different approach to eating. The French-inspired restaurant features an extensive wine list, and chef/owner Pope endeavours to showcase local food when possible.

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Octopus and chorizo ensalada. Worth the four-day efforts of executive chef Daryl Poe. Christine van Reeuwyk/Black Press
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Blackberry rubbed venison tenderloin main features fresh wild mushroom and cevre ravioli, Swiss chard and a marsala demi alonside a deep Valpolicella Classico DOC 2014 (Arduini).
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The ‘cherries and chocolate’ dessert before the drama at Artisan Bistro. A pour of hot salted caramel slowly revealed the port soaked cherries, chocolate sorbe, and hazelnut ganache bar – served with Muscat (Elodie). Christine van Reeuwyk/Black Press
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The ‘cherries and chocolate’ dessert before the drama at Artisan Bistro. A pour of hot salted caramel slowly revealed the port soaked cherries, chocolate sorbe, and hazelnut ganache bar – served with Muscat (Elodie). Christine van Reeuwyk/Black Press


Christine van Reeuwyk

About the Author: Christine van Reeuwyk

I'm dedicated to serving the community of Oak Bay as a senior journalist with the Greater Victoria news team.
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